Surabaya: Not the Home of Art and Cultural Heritage

What do I miss most from Surabaya?

No, not the theatres, malls and shopping centers – though they sprout all over the city like mushrooms in rainy seasons. And not the food and beverages either. Not the night life and everything that comes with it.

Rather, it’s the libraries (small but comfortable as I remember them) and art-and-cultural events (which are never held too often, and not in great scale either).

Oh, how I miss The British Council with its fine collection, and the bibliotheque of CCCL with its artistic interior! I used to spend hours reading and relaxing in these libraries, allowing my mind to be carried away to distant lands or sparked with brand new ideas. I miss the dances and theatres held in Cak Durasim, as well as the art exhibitions in Balai Pemuda. I miss the piano recitals, chamber music and jazz concerts held in Mandarin Oriental, Novotel and Sheraton. Musicians from Germany and France would perform in these public spots as part of bilateral art-and-cultural exchange programs.

But always, as I observe for years, the libraries are never too packed with people seeking knowledge or simply digging up information, just as the art and cultural exhibitions are never too crowded with audience desiring to listen to or watch a genuine masterpiece. I tend to meet the same people over and over, as if art, culture and knowledge in this city belonged to a certain group of highly-exclusive audience.

It is not so (or so I’ve heard) in Jakarta, Bandung and Jogjakarta. Jakarta has all the embassies of the world proposing art-and-cultural programs so that there are always two or three events held each week! Bandung is not so far behind the capital city, and Jogjakarta is so rich in art-and-cultural heritage that even the air you breathe smells of wisdom and noble art!

What about Surabaya?

Surabaya, on the other hand, is not so keen on enhancing the growth of art and culture within its walls.

Why? Because – naturally – the Surabayans are business-oriented, hard-working people. At the heart of the city life are competitions and career-building, not the subtleness of art and socio-cultural heritage. The frame of mind of the citizens is focused on economic growth and rate of prosperity.

It’s not a wonder that:

• Libraries are mostly visited by students, scholars and researchers seeking sources for their homework and papers. Rarely would people outside the circle of academicians spend their precious time (for time is money) lounging in public libraries for soul-nourishment.
• Art-and-cultural events are attended by a group of people (mostly those of relevant professions such as artists, musicians and writers) who anchor their interest in these fields. And trust me, their number is never big.
• Music schools and courses are enrolled by students whose parents desire prestige for their children. Music courses are expensive; therefore, parents think that the more their children master (classical European) music, the more prestigious their value becomes in the eyes of others.
• Such music schools and courses focus on competitions (and along with it: profit) to satisfy parents’ desire to gain fame and prestige for their children, and not on the joy and contentment of the children themselves in being able to play good music for enjoyment.

Thus, in the midst of the city’s busyness and pursuit for prosperity, art-and-culture lies estranged, desolate and miserably lonely.

And high-perched on the slope of this mountain, I sit down and sigh…